ok guys whats your go to settings for your camera and subject ?

[spudhead]

So I am not sure if I am different in the way I use my cameras and there setup but here goes, a9 manual apart from focus 98% of the time , a7iii same but I get more control over iso on that body, a99ii manual apart from focus. I came back to photography after 20 plus years away so film was the norm then, the new cameras seem to do everything if you want them too now without much in put if thats what you want. So am I weird and if so thats fine, what do you guys do when using your digital camera?

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

Interesting question.

So for all of my still (or relatively still as animals aren't models) wildlife shots I always shoot full manual with Auto ISO, but always with single centre point focus and AFC with back button focus. I will start with a shutter speed of 1/800th and always at f8 (the 200 600 is at it's best here) and I don't like losing edges to DOF, especially at 600mm. I will then adjust shutter speed down if ISO is too high, and also go to f6.3 for birds if needed. I have shot as low at 1/40th handheld and stayed sharp, but that takes some practice. I have found no use for any other focus mode in this situation BTW, they are all too erratic.

For Birds in Flight I have a custom set programmed to recall on my AEL button. This is set at 1/3200th, f6.3, +1.7 Compensation, Expanded Flexible Spot with Tracking (the A7RIV is set to Human Eye to allow me to use tracking modes, I'm not fussed about eye tracking). Using the AEL button moves the back button focus onto that button, which is very handy to say the least, so all I have to remember is to click OSS off on the lens when I need a quick swap to BIF. I turn OSS off over 1/1600th to avoid it compromising shots. I also have Auto ISO in this mode. I can't add or minus compensation in this mode, so I settled on +1.7 being a good average.

For Landscapes I have user mode 1 programmed to a specific set. ISO set at 100, Aperture Priority set at f20, Single Centre Focus again. I can adjust compensation in this mode, and often do on sunsets and sunrises.

For all set ups I use Pattern Metering. The RIV meter is very very good, way better than my old Nikon, and pattern gives perfectly excellent results most of the time, though it does blow highlights a bit. I have tried other modes and none are better IMO. I can deal with highlights in post processing. Spot makes no difference and highlight metering underexposes everything else by a stop, unsurprisingly.

 

[spudhead]

Interesting question.

So for all of my still (or relatively still as animals aren't models) wildlife shots I always shoot full manual with Auto ISO, but always with single centre point focus and AFC with back button focus. I will start with a shutter speed of 1/800th and always at f8 (the 200 600 is at it's best here) and I don't like losing edges to DOF, especially at 600mm. I will then adjust shutter speed down if ISO is too high, and also go to f6.3 for birds if needed. I have shot as low at 1/40th handheld and stayed sharp, but that takes some practice. I have found no use for any other focus mode in this situation BTW, they are all too erratic.

For Birds in Flight I have a custom set programmed to recall on my AEL button. This is set at 1/3200th, f6.3, +1.7 Compensation, Expanded Flexible Spot with Tracking (the A7RIV is set to Human Eye to allow me to use tracking modes, I'm not fussed about eye tracking). Using the AEL button moves the back button focus onto that button, which is very handy to say the least, so all I have to remember is to click OSS off on the lens when I need a quick swap to BIF. I turn OSS off over 1/1600th to avoid it compromising shots. I also have Auto ISO in this mode. I can't add or minus compensation in this mode, so I settled on +1.7 being a good average.

For Landscapes I have user mode 1 programmed to a specific set. ISO set at 100, Aperture Priority set at f20, Single Centre Focus again. I can adjust compensation in this mode, and often do on sunsets and sunrises.

For all set ups I use Pattern Metering. The RIV meter is very very good, way better than my old Nikon, and pattern gives perfectly excellent results most of the time, though it does blow highlights a bit. I have tried other modes and none are better IMO. I can deal with highlights in post processing. Spot makes no difference and highlight metering underexposes everything else by a stop, unsurprisingly.

Thanks for reply dont give all your tricks away, I have not done bif yet in anger but played a bit and all you bird shooters on here put great images up for viewing.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

Thanks for reply dont give all your tricks away, I have not done bif yet in anger but played a bit and all you bird shooters on here put great images up for viewing.

Haha, why not. I've always been one to help. advise, etc. Not everything I do suits everyone, but it's stuff I've developed over time, and I think my images prove I'm doing something right!

One exception to the above is that I will sometimes use Zone for Birds in Flight, it's particularly good for birds flying toward you.

 

[Sdawes]

Manual mode with auto iso ( no upper limit set ) , exposure compensation programmed to rear wheel as its easier to operate with just my thumb , zebra 109+ active at all times to ensure any highlights on the subject are not over exposed and risk of burning out whites greatly reduced. Eye af programmed to custom button as is the ability to switch between bird/animal /human on another button. Have always been a back button focuser and this has not changed since switching to Sony 18months ago although plenty of people advocate there is no advantage now as the focus and tracking is so good . BIF are mainly shot using zone focus mode but will use tracking mode wide on particularly small fast subjects such as swifts , sand martins etc. Have a custom button programmed for static wildlife with its own specific settings and another custom button set up to instigate tracking mode . All this enables me to do everything I need to do in the majority of circumstances without ever having to take my eye away from the viewfinder .

 

[spudhead]

Manual mode with auto iso ( no upper limit set ) , exposure compensation programmed to rear wheel as its easier to operate with just my thumb , zebra 109+ active at all times to ensure any highlights on the subject are not over exposed and risk of burning out whites greatly reduced. Eye af programmed to custom button as is the ability to switch between bird/animal /human on another button. Have always been a back button focuser and this has not changed since switching to Sony 18months ago although plenty of people advocate there is no advantage now as the focus and tracking is so good . BIF are mainly shot using zone focus mode but will use tracking mode wide on particularly small fast subjects such as swifts , sand martins etc. Have a custom button programmed for static wildlife with its own specific settings and another custom button set up to instigate tracking mode . All this enables me to do everything I need to do in the majority of circumstances without ever having to take my eye away from the viewfinder .

thanks for reply and I am hoping this thread will help members on here

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

Manual mode with auto iso ( no upper limit set ) , exposure compensation programmed to rear wheel as its easier to operate with just my thumb , zebra 109+ active at all times to ensure any highlights on the subject are not over exposed and risk of burning out whites greatly reduced. Eye af programmed to custom button as is the ability to switch between bird/animal /human on another button. Have always been a back button focuser and this has not changed since switching to Sony 18months ago although plenty of people advocate there is no advantage now as the focus and tracking is so good . BIF are mainly shot using zone focus mode but will use tracking mode wide on particularly small fast subjects such as swifts , sand martins etc. Have a custom button programmed for static wildlife with its own specific settings and another custom button set up to instigate tracking mode . All this enables me to do everything I need to do in the majority of circumstances without ever having to take my eye away from the viewfinder .

I've not used Zebra, I will give that a try.

 

[spudhead]

I've not used Zebra, I will give that a try.

its on my a9 and a7

 

[pointreyes]

For low light, no flash allowed event photography, manual mode with auto ISO, prefer a minimum speed of 1/250 sec and try to use f/2.8 or smaller when possible. Zebra set to 109+ to help me see if the spotlight is too bright, with Auto ISO I can still adjust with the exposure compensation dial. Using AF-C with Human eye AF enabled but can be toggled on/off with the button on the lens. Use Zone focusing and switch to single point tracking if needed. Auto ISO is a big benefit for me since the lighting conditions cause the ISO to range from 1250 to 25600.

 

[Alain]

its on my a9 and a7

It's on by default on my a9. but I have C1 to toggle it. Sometimes the zebras get in the way.

 

[Alain]

I find M(anual) mode + Auto ISO to be the easiest to use. AF-C + back-button focus, AEL to switch between zones and Expand Flexible Spot. Burst mode for birds in flight, single-shot otherwise in most cases. Zebras on by default C1 to enable/disable. When I'm lazy or just walking around with the camera, A mode or S mode depending on the subject.

 

[Sdawes]

I've not used Zebra, I will give that a try.

I find it really helpful Kev except when you are taking images of a dark subject against a bright sky and need exposure compensation , in these instances the zebra stripes cover all the viewfinder and are very distracting . I have it programmed to the trash can button so can easily switch it off if required with my thumb but it is permanently on in most instances.

 

[Doug Herr]

Manual shutter, aperture and ISO, using zebras and live histogram. Essentially the viewfinder is the exposure meter.

 

[spudhead]

Manual shutter, aperture and ISO, using zebras and live histogram. Essentially the viewfinder is the exposure meter.

Yes one thing I was told early on with digital camera is if it looks good in the view finder its probably ok exposure wise, so can I ask who is with me shooting raw only? and thanks for replies all

 

[pointreyes]

I shot raw only for visible light pictures. For my full spectrum converted camera, I use jpeg and uncompressed raw. The jpeg is a helpful guide to the raw file.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

I find it really helpful Kev except when you are taking images of a dark subject against a bright sky and need exposure compensation , in these instances the zebra stripes cover all the viewfinder and are very distracting . I have it programmed to the trash can button so can easily switch it off if required with my thumb but it is permanently on in most instances.

I've been trying it out today at a zoo where it didn't matter too much to me if it didn't work out, and it has been useful, but has also resulted in some underexposed shots where I have tried to compensate to eliminate the highlights. I will persist with it for a bit.

 

[Sdawes]

I've been trying it out today at a zoo where it didn't matter too much to me if it didn't work out, and it has been useful, but has also resulted in some underexposed shots where I have tried to compensate to eliminate the highlights. I will persist with it for a bit.

You have to be mindful with it at times Kev , I only check for over exposure on the subject not the whole scene as that is obviously the focus off the intended shot , additionally for wildlife it is recommended to set the zebra as a custom value of 109+ as opposed to the default setting in the camera .

 

[Sdawes]

Yes one thing I was told early on with digital camera is if it looks good in the view finder its probably ok exposure wise, so can I ask who is with me shooting raw only? and thanks for replies all

Only ever shoot RAW Gary

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

You have to be mindful with it at times Kev , I only check for over exposure on the subject not the whole scene as that is obviously the focus off the intended shot , additionally for wildlife it is recommended to set the zebra as a custom value of 109+ as opposed to the default setting in the camera .

Yeah I've done that, and was only adjusting for the subject. Light was tricky in places today, and things like Tigers have lots of contrasting colours to go with the white in strong sunlight.

 

[Doug Herr]

Yes one thing I was told early on with digital camera is if it looks good in the view finder its probably ok exposure wise, so can I ask who is with me shooting raw only? and thanks for replies all

Raw only.

 

[Jeff A]

I shoot RAW and JPEG simultaneously. I just like to see how the photos look on my monitor before starting the editing process.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

Raw only here too.

 

[Sdawes]

Yeah I've done that, and was only adjusting for the subject. Light was tricky in places today, and things like Tigers have lots of contrasting colours to go with the white in strong sunlight.

I always remove the Zebra's from the subject and if that results in some under exposure in the rest of the image then its a simple task to adjust in post processing with a curves layer.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

I always remove the Zebra's from the subject and if that results in some under exposure in the rest of the image then its a simple task to adjust in post processing with a curves layer.

That's exactly how I used it, and yeah, adjustments in PS are easy, though I don't use curves

 

[spudhead]

I shoot RAW and JPEG simultaneously. I just like to see how the photos look on my monitor before starting the editing process.

Hi Jeff yes both is fine but I find jpeg with sony the colours are bit strong, and some of the applied in camera editing not to my liking , but yes jpeg is a way of cutting down on editing as well.

 

[Jeff A]

Hi Jeff yes both is fine but I find jpeg with sony the colours are bit strong, and some of the applied in camera editing not to my liking , but yes jpeg is a way of cutting down on editing as well.

I don't do any editing of the JPEG's. I just use them as a preview so the speak because my photo viewer runs a bit slow on RAW files. All of my photos on Flickr are from RAW files that have been edited with Lightroom Classic.

 

[spudhead]

I don't do any editing of the JPEG's. I just use them as a preview so the speak because my photo viewer runs a bit slow on RAW files. All of my photos on Flickr are from RAW files that have been edited with Lightroom Classic.

Its what ever suits you jeff not everybody wants to spend time editing

 

[Jeff A]

Its what ever suits you jeff not everybody wants to spend time editing

Agreed.

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

This is an interesting thread.
I've changed the way I use my camera in the last 6 months. I used to leave it on manual mode for everything, but as I started to take more photos of people (birthday parties, friends, family) I made two changes:
1. I shoot these events on Aperture Priority now (with ISO on auto, but within a limited range)
2. I set the camera to record JPG + RAW. This wastes digital space but my new approach is to be able to dump all the JPGs to a Google Drive and then tell my friends and family to choose a limited few shots they want me to edit for them from Raw to final product.

I think the only other thing I take pictures of is landscape or flowers, and for this I always use Manual mode with my ISO set to 100, bumping that up only if necessary.
OH, and I programmed my C1 button to be a MF/AF switch so if I use a lens without a physical MF/AF switch, I can always make this change without having to dive into the menus.

 

[spudhead]

It's on by default on my a9. but I have C1 to toggle it. Sometimes the zebras get in the way.

GOT mine on c2 for same reason