Sony A1 SteadyShot visual stabilization question

[GracieAllen]

My searches didn’t turn up anything on this, so I don’t think it’s an Alpha 1 problem because the images are sharp. I think it’s an operator problem getting used to how the mirrorless ecosystem works.

For those of you who are transplants from DSLRs, I’m used to the vibration reduction on the Nikons where whether using a Nikon lens or a Tamron 150-600 G2 at 600mm, when I press the shutter part way the vibration reduction engages and the image stabilizes. A LOT. There’s a sudden, visible stopping of the camera jittering and wobbling from me hand-holding the camera. The display is solid and visibly stable.

This doesn’t happen with the Alpha 1 and Sony 200-600. SteadyShot is ON, Steadyshot Stabilization is in Auto. The lens has Optical Steadyshot ON, and is in Mode 1.

I’m all over the place when hand-holding this thing, but no more than with the Nikon/Tamron combination, but unlike the Nikon, when I press the shutter part way it very SLIGHTLY reduces the camera movement in the EVF view, but nothing like what I’m used to with the DSLR. In Mode 2 or 3 it doesn’t seem to stabilize at all, but I’m mostly interested in Mode 1…

IT APPEARS TO BE WORKING because I have sharp hand-held images shot at 600mm and 1/200, and there’s no possible way I could hold the camera stable at that shutter speed. It just doesn’t look stable in the EVF.

Is this difference in visible stabilization in the EVF NORMAL for mirrorless cameras? Does the EVF just not reflect the stabilization engaging? Is there some setting I’m missing on the Alpha 1?

 

[MrFotoFool]

The difference (I think) is that the Sony mirrorless has BOTH in-body stabilization and in-lens stabilization (on some lenses, like your 200-600). The in-body stabilization is always on and you will always see that in the viewfinder. Your Nikon DSLR (which I also use) does not have this, it only has in-lens, so the lens has to do a lot more work to make the image stable. That is why you see a dramatic difference. Since the Sony body is already stabilizing the image all the time, you only see a slight improvment from the lens when you press the shutter partway.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

Mode 1 on the 200 600 is the one to use for the images to look steady in the viewfinder, as long as OSS is on. It's the only mode I can use, I hate the image moving around in the Viewfinder, it's distracting.

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

In general and speaking for Sony systems, from experience with the A7R VI and beyond, Sony as we all know
currently manufactures its mirrorless cameras with IBIS but does not manufacture lenses with ISS below about
70mm focal length (there are some notable exceptions such as the 24-105 f4 OSS).

In taking the decision to implement steady shot(IBIS) in their cameras alone, as one of the few manufacturers
who does, Sony and third party lenses without ISS, are controlled by the IBIS system wherein IBIS as a 5 axis
steady shot system communicates with the lenses and extracts Roll and Yaw info whereas IBIS takes care of
the other three axes......

To get to the point, when you have a Sony lens with ISS, and bearing in mind mode 1 is for horizontal panning,
mode 2 is for vertical movements and mode 3 for erratic 3D movement and if you are seeing significant image
movement such as "all over the place" when hand holding you should try either Mode2 or Mode 3, i beleive if
you use Mode 1 and are not holding your camera/lens strictly in the horizontal plane there will be a conflict
with IBIS and the SS system will perform very well.

If the the above does not work switching the lens mode off with IBIS alone should be better.

On third party lenses except for Sigma possibly who have a development agreement with Sony for E Mount
Sigma lenses and so their Lens ISS system should perform similarily............with other third party E.Mount
lenses with ISS it is unlikely they will perform with a Sony camera and it is probably best to switch off their
lens ISS systems and let IBIS provide the steady shot control.

The above is the theory, as I understand it, but as usual in practice and dependant upon the steadiness of
of the shooters hands/arms when shooting, when hand holding, things may not follow the above guidelines.

Hope this helps based on how I understand the SONY IBIS/ISS operation.

 

[GracieAllen]

Thanks for the replies...

Sounds like there's a lot more stabilization happening than I'm seeing in the viewfinder. I understand IBIS exists, and that it works, but I'm not sure how much of all that stabilization in the body and the lens I should be seeing in the EVF. SO, I'm not gonna worry about it!

 

[Ziggy]

AFAIK Sony Mode 3 (for erratic) only acts just before you take the shot. This is to enable you to keep eg an erratic bird in the frame.

Nikon's modes need an essay on their own (and Thom Hogan has written it) but IIRC Sport mode is intended to stabilise the VF image so you can see what your subject is doing. But when it ends your subject has moved some distance in it.

Then there's interaction with SS. To my eye, using D500 VR and fast speeds or not using VR didn't make much difference. But it does on Sonys and I turn OSS off over 1/500s when handholding BIF shots.

OSS/VR/etc becomes less effective anyway on long lenses. Small subject movements show much larger with them and slight movements in the rig are magnified.

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

If you are shooting flying birds, in most cases your shutter speed will generally be +1000 and hence steady shot either IBIS or
ISS doesn't have much effect and will probably work against you.

For static subjects, if you need to drop your shutter speed, particularily if you drop it below the reciprocal of your focal length
(1/lens focal length) then it would be wise to implement IBIS/ISS....if you are on a tripod, again it is normal to switch off IbIS/ISS.

Some people will shoot outside the above guidelines but most will follow this............

 

[GracieAllen]

Thanks for the reply.

I've concluded that it does a fine job. It just doesn't LOOK like it's doing it. Again, based on the lock in, visible stabilization I'm used to. But, even when I screw up and wind up shooting at 600mm and 1/200 there's a high percentage of surprisingly good images.

I haven't had it on a tripod yet 'cause all my "tripod" stuff has been macro or very close-up. Which means image stacking.

But as near as I can tell the stabilization works fine.