Best wildlife shooting tips/tricks or accessories?

[Gigi]

Hello!

I'm a new wildlife shooter.
What are your best tips, tricks or accessories?
I have an a6500 and I have a 100-400GM lens.

Thanks!

 

[Cliff]

ah, good question, thanks for posting ,I'm new to Sony so I will follow this thread with great interest

 

[Dylan Burgess]

Carry spare batteries and make sure they are charged

Do some homework on the area and especially the species you plan to photograph.

But my best advice, just go out and shoot. Get to know your equipment and setup, but most of all have fun.

 

[Doug Herr]

Camo netting and a broad brimmed hat. I've had birds land on my head while using this stuff.

 

[Wildlifepixs]

Don't make sudden moves when you see something.
Always slowly point your camera in the direction of your subject.
Try to rent a hide, so you can test some things.
Go to Richmond Park in Sep/Oct for the dears.

 

[Vorkell]

I go for walks with my GF, and I've finally broken her out of the habit of pointing at something she sees before me! When you point at something, you're telling that thing that it has your attention, and it will run off!

Some other notes from my experiences:
- As others have said, move slowly, when looking around, and when you see something, don't rush to point your camera at it. Just getting out and shooting is a huge thing and you'll be amazed at how after a few trips, you'll find that you approach situations differently!
- If you're going to stay in roughly the same spot, get a hide (I personally don't have the patience for one, so I prefer to hike).
- Stay around the edge of a forest / lake. This will combine two ecosystems and allow for more chances at seeing something interesting!
- I prefer flexible spot with AF-C. Nothing has frustrated me like trying to take a picture of a bird who goes in front of something and all of a sudden my camera is like "OH! PRETTY FOLIAGE!" and focuses on that. It takes getting used too, but it's well worth it imo.
- Along with the last point, get used to tracking a subject.
- Silent shutter, if you have it, is incredibly handy, especially while in a hide. With that said, I rarely use it unless I'm trying to get some nice closeups.
- You would be surprised at what animals will allow if they feel you aren't threatening. I've had beavers and coyotes let me walk fairly close (Close enough to fully fill the frame on a 600mm lens).
- You'd also be amazed at how many animals are at your local park or lake (if you're lucky enough to have one)! In the middle of my city (Around Toronto, Canada), we have a small park with a very small lake. We get Beavers, Herons, Hawks, Otters, Coyotes, Falcons and many other forms of wildlife out there- Even though it's in the middle of a city, and backs onto a school and a recreation center!

 

[dragonsdreams]

That should be a nice set up for wildlife with the cropped sensor. If you shoot a lot of birds might be worth investing in the 1.4x converter. If you are just starting out with nature photography it is worth going out with a wildlife guide or another wildlife photographer who will show to the basics of where the animals are best seen, at what time of the day, their behaviour and thus prepared to get the best photos. With the 100-400mm get used to start with the lens zoomed out to find the animal and zoom in while holding it in focus.

 

[KevinAlphaG]

Some good suggestions so far. I have a few I can offer, especially if you plan to shoot birds, either stationary or in-flight.

1) Depending on where you shoot, at a local lake or park where people regularly walk, the birds may be more accustomed to people. It is much easier to approach a bit closer to birds here without spooking them too much. In any case, avoid "pointing" at them. I walk with my partner, and whenever one of us sees something, we verbally say where it is - we never point. Birds are very aware of our moves and actions, so it's best not to make them feel threatened, or approach them too rapidly or closely.

2) Be aware of your lighting/sun direction. Try and plan to get the best light on your subject, which means you may have to re-position yourself, after you notice where the birds are hanging out.

3) Be aware of their patterns and movements. This is especially true if you're shooting at a bird feeder or a place where birds go to feed. I sometimes rig up a branch close by to a feeder, so the birds have a place to perch, while waiting their turn at the feeder, or to shell and eat a seed after getting it from the feeder. Smaller birds can be very fast and only stay on a perch for a couple of seconds, so it's good to observe what they do - they usually repeat their behavior and you can at least plan to get a shot where they are perching, even for a few seconds.

4) Have your camera set-up to be able to capture certain situations - I usually have a button programmed to shoot flying birds and one for perched birds, using different focus methods and shutter speeds. I usually use Zone focus for flying birds and one of the single point focus points for stationary birds. Since I shoot manual, using Auto ISO, I usually make adjustment to my shutter speed depending on the speed I may need, which may help with avoiding higher ISOs sometimes.

5) I find it's good to go with someone also, even if they are not a photographer. My partner and I usually go together to hike or walk, even though I am the only photographer. I rarely am the first to spot a bird! So it's helpful to have another set of eyes.

Anyway, there are many more, but you'll get the hang of it I'm sure, and will develop your own helpful habits as you shoot more. Good luck!

~Kevin

 

[GregS]

When leaving sight of your car or a paved trail, always carry a compass. (A decent one.)

And always know your 'safe direction' if you get turn-around. Meaning, if you know the road you came in on goes east-west and you walked to the north your 'safe direction' is to walk south until you hit the road.

 

[Ziggy]

Cheapest and most potent tips ...
Do all you can to shoot at the level of the bird's (or whatever's) eye. It's more engaging. Looking down isn't.
Start (at least) with the light streaming over your shoulder. Top down light, harsh light, don't do much for the colours or shapes. Light cloud cover can be good too. Shooting against the light can be dramatic but takes skill.