eBay tactics

xpc316e

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David Daw
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I am retired and wish to pursue my photography hobby while paying as little as possible for my equipment. I also wish to use what I consider to be gear of top quality. The two aims are quite possible to simultaneously achieve and eBay is my usual happy hunting ground. For me, it simply isn't vital to have the absolute latest, must-have, camera as last year's model usually does 99% of what the new model does but at a much lower price.

My auction site of choice is eBay. My tactics are to never use the Buy It Now facility until I have been watching an item for at least a couple of days, because on quite a few occasions the seller has made me a reduced price offer when I have been sitting on their item for a while.

I also aim to do a bit of research by seeing what other platforms are charging for similar items. I have even found new items for sale at prices below what used ones are fetching on auction sites. I also check out whether the same item is available in other auctions and in a recent example I was looking to buy a used Sigma 50mm DG HSM f1.4 lens. I found one with just one bid of £150 and a couple of days left to run. I also found another example of the same lens with a Buy It Now price of £375. I sometimes use MPB for buying things and they wanted the thick end of £500 for the same lens. My research led me to believe that they usually went for around £400 on eBay.

I bid in the last, dying seconds of the first auction, but lost out and the lens eventually sold for £393. I held off buying the other one for £375 and decided to keep it in my watched list. After letting my ardour cool overnight, I went off to work and then returned home to find that the seller had reduced the Buy It Now price of the second lens to £300. Guess what? Yes, I leapt in and pulled the trigger on it.

So the moral of the tale is to hold your horses and don't get emotionally involved in an auction when the same item might well be available at a lower price, using the Buy It Now facility. Even when it is available, just sit back and let the item stew in your Watch List for a while and see what happens - you may be pleasantly surprised by the results. Even if you lose out on an item, don't fret as there will be another one listed shortly.

When selling on eBay I always include as many decent photos of an item as is possible. I usually insert links to the maker's webpage for the item when it was new, in order that buyers can get as much information as possible. I have found that a very low starting price, no reserve, and no Buy It Now price gets me the best possible result. I also like to let the auction run for 10 days and time it to end at around 8pm on a Sunday evening. There is plenty of research around that states the auctions ending then get the best prices.

By the way, I cannot remember when I last bought a major piece of photographic equipment that was not used. I have always found that eBay sellers with a decent track record are more than honest when describing their items, so do check out the seller's history before jumping in.

Happy hunting.
 
A tactic I've used before is to watch and item for several days, then un-watch it. About 50% of the time an offer will be made within a day..

I stopped selling on eBay when they implemented the new rule regarding taxes and my SS number. Those clowns aren't capable of keeping a school locker secure, they sure as hell aren't getting that kind of info.
 
In years past I bought a number of used cameras for my collection mostly not to use but for display. While I will agree the vast number of sellers are honest I did have a few that out and out lied and would not fix the issues at hand. The main culprit I found was the words used to describe condition had different meanings to the seller and me. Best example was a Minox I bought that was described as mint, and if you were to just judge the appearance it was, the only problem was the shutter was jammed and would have cost more than the camera was worth to repair. They said that the listing never said wheter it worked or not just that it was in mint condition. For me mint is more than appearance and the shutter jam was obvious. On the other hand I bought a lens once that was also described as flawless except when it arrived the front element was bad scratched, this seller though was a good one and took it back . Buyer and seller beware.
 
A tactic I've used before is to watch and item for several days, then un-watch it. About 50% of the time an offer will be made within a day..

I stopped selling on eBay when they implemented the new rule regarding taxes and my SS number. Those clowns aren't capable of keeping a school locker secure, they sure as hell aren't getting that kind of info.
Well over 2000 deals on ebay until they changed the rules on payments received , now it full of idiots, I rarely buy and no longer sell on the site
 
In years past I bought a number of used cameras for my collection mostly not to use but for display. While I will agree the vast number of sellers are honest I did have a few that out and out lied and would not fix the issues at hand. The main culprit I found was the words used to describe condition had different meanings to the seller and me. Best example was a Minox I bought that was described as mint, and if you were to just judge the appearance it was, the only problem was the shutter was jammed and would have cost more than the camera was worth to repair. They said that the listing never said wheter it worked or not just that it was in mint condition. For me mint is more than appearance and the shutter jam was obvious. On the other hand I bought a lens once that was also described as flawless except when it arrived the front element was bad scratched, this seller though was a good one and took it back . Buyer and seller beware.

I learnt through cars and bikes that immaculate means different things to different people. When I say immaculate I mean it is literally unmarked, most people think immaculate means a few marks here and there...
 
Camera gear I've only bought brand new. I'll just find the best deal I can on the internet then get a local shop to price match it. I've always got things for sensational prices. ✅
 
Camera gear I've only bought brand new. I'll just find the best deal I can on the internet then get a local shop to price match it. I've always got things for sensational prices. ✅
Unless it was some very old camera/lens more for display than use, I have always bought new when i will be using it to shoot with today. While I realize they are good deals to be had in the used market, i just trust that buying new is a better option for me. All that being said some of those old rangefinder Nikons, Leicas, Contax and others were made so well back in the day that unless really neglected or dropped badly still work almost as well as new, not bad for 50-70 year old stuff. Also it is amazing to me, with the new interest in shooting film that some of those cameras are selling at prices today that are far higher than a few years back.
 
I learnt through cars and bikes that immaculate means different things to different people. When I say immaculate I mean it is literally unmarked, most people think immaculate means a few marks here and there...
So right on that one Clint (y)
 
Personally I've found the price of camera gear on the bay to be unrealistically optimistic. Often a search of einfinity or Panamoz will find it cheaper or comparable but with a UK warranty.
 
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