LEE 100x100, 100x150 filters or?

[RussAdams]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to using filters, and would like some advice on choosing the right ones.

My widest lens is the SEL2470GM at 82mm. Then SAL70400G at 77mm. Next is 72mm. Lots of old glass in the 50mm range.

What is the benefit of going beyond 100x100 to 100x150?

Are the LEE filters that much better than the cheap filters from China?

I'm mostly interested in ND filters for waterfalls and for grad ND's for those times when sky and ground/water are far apart in dynamic range. Maybe a 'sunset' type filter for dramatic effect.

Any other suggestions for good quality brand names?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Russ

 

[Amor Lucis]

Hi,

I've used Lee, Nisi, Irix, and now Kase (magnetic) filters. I think Lee are very overpriced, to be honest. Standard Lee ND grads are resin, but glass filters (e.g. Nisi) tends to be of higher quality optically and harder to scratch. I'd choose Nisi over Lee without a doubt, though neither is cheap. I've seen studies showing that most filters, including *most* cheap ones, will not appreciably degrade the image, but *some* cheap filters do. The main problem with cheap filters are a) flare and b) cleaning. Both are related to the coatings and these *do* make quite a big difference. Lee resin filters, in my experience, are a b**** to clean smudges from, especially in the field. Their NDs are not much better.

The Lee-100 system will work fine without mechanical vignetting on most lenses down to *about* 16mm. The ND grads are oblong and are 100x150mm I believe, whilst their NDs are 100mm square and made of glass. Note that Lee NDs give a strong colour cast - a distinct blue tint. This can usually be corrected adequately in post, but the absence of any significant colour casting with Nisi filters (plus the superior coating) made them the clearly superior option in my view. The Lee-150 system is much wider, heavier and more expensive, but they are for ultra-wide lenses wider than 16mm and you'd usually need a lens-specific adapter since lenses that wide tend to not have a front filter thread.

These days I rarely use ND grads and life is a *lot* easy in the field. Instead, I use Kase magnetic filters (they also do an ND grad, but being a fixed circular filter you can't adjust the graduation point in the image like you can with Lee, etc. When I have excessive dynamic range I bracket and then exposure blend in post. This has the additional advantage that what you do in the field is "non-destructive" to the image. If you overdo the ND graduation in the field (as I've done on occasion) it can be difficult to undo in post.

Martin

 

[RussAdams]

Thanks Martin for the indepth reply!

I like the idea of glass filters. Thanks for pointing me at Nisi. No color cast and easier to clean are a bonus.

I want to start off with ND filters for the longer exposure times for flowing water.

Bracketing is great for landscapes.

Again, thanks for your very useful comment!

Russell

 

[Ade]

Also have a look at H&Y magnetic K Series filters, I have just got a kit and the quality is awesome.
There are a couple of reviews online.
I previously used Lee Seven5 filters but find the a little too small for my current lenses.
Another name to check out is PolarPro - especially as you are in the US, they currently have a couple of offers on their Summit kits.

 

[RussAdams]

H&Y magnetic K

Thanks Ade,

That also looks interesting.

They don't claim to be 'nano' coatings, but do claim 'ultra low color cast'.

I wonder if 'nano' is really a value added, or just marketing added. Hmmm.

Russell

 

[RussAdams]

Anyone have a suggestion for a rule of thumb on how many stops to use for water?

 

[Amor Lucis]

Anyone have a suggestion for a rule of thumb on how many stops to use for water?

It will all depend on the amount of ambient light, the distance of the water, how fast it is moving, and the amount of silky smoothing you are looking for. I tend to look for shutter speeds of between 1/4 s and 1s to balance smoothness with detail. Where I mostly shoot (in western Canada) at base ISO I tend to use a 3 stop ND more than the others for waterfalls, but occasionally I use a 6 stop. For coastal scenes a 6-stop is more usual and sometimes a 10-stop. I have a 15-stop but I've almost never used it.

 

[RussAdams]

It will all depend on the amount of ambient light, the distance of the water, how fast it is moving, and the amount of silky smoothing you are looking for. I tend to look for shutter speeds of between 1/4 s and 1s to balance smoothness with detail. Where I mostly shoot (in western Canada) at base ISO I tend to use a 3 stop ND more than the others for waterfalls, but occasionally I use a 6 stop. For coastal scenes a 6-stop is more usual and sometimes a 10-stop. I have a 15-stop but I've almost never used it.

Thanks!

So you'd recommend a 3 and 6 stop ND to start with?

Russell

 

[Amor Lucis]

I would. If you wait until the light fades a bit you won't need either.