Lens filter for flowers

[alexpler]

So in a couple of weeks I will be traveling to Japan, hopefully during cherry blossom season. I've reading tutorials on how to shoot flowers, as they're not my speciality, and they all recommend using a circular polarizer filter (CPL), specially because the subtle colours of the cherry flowers can confound the auto white balance or be incorrectly captured without a filter.

What's your experience, are filters indispensable for flowers? Which filter brand do you recommend? I'm kind of overwhelmed at this moment. Also not all brands have 72mm filters (the size of the 20-70 lens that I will use during travel paired with my A7C) and in some reviews I read about the difficulty of removing the filter when you don't want to use it. So maybe a magnetic filter is best for installing/removing often?

Thanks in advance for your advice. I feel like a total noob again haha.

 

[Richard A]

If you are using a mirrorless camera, which I presume you are, you can use a linear polariser or a circular polariser. You may find that linear polarisers are cheaper. I would recommend magnetic filters. They are much easier to fit & remove. I was a bit sceptical until I actually bought a set. With the lens you have, it may be a good idea to go up a size or two, to 77 or even 82mm with a step up ring. That way you will minimise the chance of vignetting when your lens is set at 20mm.

 

[alexpler]

If you are using a mirrorless camera, which I presume you are, you can use a linear polariser or a circular polariser. You may find that linear polarisers are cheaper. I would recommend magnetic filters. They are much easier to fit & remove. I was a bit sceptical until I actually bought a set. With the lens you have, it may be a good idea to go up a size or two, to 77 or even 82mm with a step up ring. That way you will minimise the chance of vignetting when your lens is set at 20mm.

Yes, I'm a proud owner of an A7C. Thanks for your advices, I didn't even knew that you could install a larger ring to avoid vignetting

 

[Richard A]

I have lenses that are 67mm, 77mm and 82mm. All my magnetic filters are 82mm and I have step up rings 67-82mm and 77-82mm.

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

A polarizer will primarily take glare off the leaves and help greens look greener. Sometimes this also affects the photo of the flower itself, if there is glare to be reduced. However, I sometimes see a shift in color cast to the entire scene when comparing polarized and non-polarized photos of flowers/scenery. This can be manipulated a bit if you're editing RAW files.

Do I think it is an absolute necessity? Nope. It is nice to have it in your kit just in case you need it, but you might not.

If you are getting and filters, Richard's suggestion is a good one: buy the filter sized for the widest lens you own and then use step-up rings to mount to your lens that day.

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

Have a look at this photo I took 2 years ago with flowers similar to cherry blossoms (no polarizer needed):

Birds - London Parakeet

3 weeks ago in London, we enjoyed a walk in Kensington Gardens and I saw some blossoms I wanted to take pictures of. Only when I was closer did I see there was some wildlife too! And a close-up: Ring-Necked Parakeet I always thought of Parakeets as tropical birds. Imagine my surprise to see...

www.alphashooters.com

In my opinion, it is more important to avoid over-exposure than to worry about polarizer use. Do this either by using zebra stripes or the +/- exposure bar on your display.

 

[alexpler]

A polarizer will primarily take glare off the leaves and help greens look greener. Sometimes this also affects the photo of the flower itself, if there is glare to be reduced. However, I sometimes see a shift in color cast to the entire scene when comparing polarized and non-polarized photos of flowers/scenery. This can be manipulated a bit if you're editing RAW files.

Do I think it is an absolute necessity? Nope. It is nice to have it in your kit just in case you need it, but you might not.

If you are getting and filters, Richard's suggestion is a good one: buy the filter sized for the widest lens you own and then use step-up rings to mount to your lens that day.

Thing about cherry blossoms, from what I read, is that they can look flat white without a polarizer. The filter seems to enhance its natural pink tones. Leaves shouldn't be a problem in this case, as cherry blossoms appear before the leaves.

Also I understand this kind of filter would be useful for landscape where there are water reflections, to make what's underwater stand out too. Like when shooting a koi fish in the pond of a zen garden.

Still undecided haha.

 

[alexpler]

Have a look at this photo I took 2 years ago with flowers similar to cherry blossoms (no polarizer needed):

Birds - London Parakeet

3 weeks ago in London, we enjoyed a walk in Kensington Gardens and I saw some blossoms I wanted to take pictures of. Only when I was closer did I see there was some wildlife too! And a close-up: Ring-Necked Parakeet I always thought of Parakeets as tropical birds. Imagine my surprise to see...

www.alphashooters.com

In my opinion, it is more important to avoid over-exposure than to worry about polarizer use. Do this either by using zebra stripes or the +/- exposure bar on your display.

I have the zebra stripes activated all the time since I discovered that setting. And I prefer underexposing a little bit, actually. Thanks for your help.

 

[Richard A]

Polarising filters are useful for a lot of situations. It is true that circular polarisers can shift the colour but a good quality one will greatly minimise this. That is why I suggested a linear polariser as they are much less likely to have a colour cast.

 

[Brownie]

Alex, generally speaking a polarizer will improve contrast in your images and control glare. However, you do lose some light. I try to buy polarizers that lose a stop or less, there is usually a 'filter factor' in the description. Look for one that has a factor of <1.

The reason a filter can cause vignetting is that the filter rings extend a bit beyond the lens itself, so when using a wide angle, the camera can sometimes see those corners. You can get a slim profile filter to help reduce it, or you can use a step-up ring and a larger filter. Drawback to a step-up ring is that you may not be able to use your lens hood along with the polarizer.

I've never used the magnetic type, but have heard good things. I would be cautious about having one on and just walking around, I don't know if a bump or knock could make it fall off. People who have used them would be better to comment on how stable they are.

Lastly, don't cheap out on the filter. You're using a $1,000 lens, don't put a $20 piece of glass in front of it. You don't need to buy the best, but you should get the best one you can afford.

Also, don't just think of it for flowers and water. Glare from glass storefronts, shiny automobiles, just about anything. I use them on my lenses at the track to reduce the glare from the surface and cars. You will probably decide to leave it on until the sun goes down.

 

[Richard A]

I have the zebra stripes activated all the time since I discovered that setting. And I prefer underexposing a little bit, actually, I tend to have -1 set on the exposure ring and rarely go above that haha. Thanks for your help.

If you have zebra stripes set up properly you shouldn't need to have -1 exposure comp...

 

[alexpler]

Alex, generally speaking a polarizer will improve contrast in your images and control glare. However, you do lose some light. I try to buy polarizers that lose a stop or less, there is usually a 'filter factor' in the description. Look for one that has a factor of <1.

The reason a filter can cause vignetting is that the filter rings extend a bit beyond the lens itself, so when using a wide angle, the camera can sometimes see those corners. You can get a slim profile filter to help reduce it, or you can use a step-up ring and a larger filter. Drawback to a step-up ring is that you may not be able to use your lens hood along with the polarizer.

I've never used the magnetic type, but have heard good things. I would be cautious about having one on and just walking around, I don't know if a bump or knock could make it fall off. People who have used them would be better to comment on how stable they are.

Lastly, don't cheap out on the filter. You're using a $1,000 lens, don't put a $20 piece of glass in front of it. You don't need to buy the best, but you should get the best one you can afford.

Also, don't just think of it for flowers and water. Glare from glass storefronts, shiny automobiles, just about anything. I use them on my lenses at the track to reduce the glare from the surface and cars. You will probably decide to leave it on until the sun goes down.

Thank you for your input. Yes, I know that there may be many uses, I was just thinking about some situations of this upcoming trip where a filter could be helpful. I thought about the risk of magnetic filters falling out as well...

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

Also, don't just think of it for flowers and water. Glare from glass storefronts, shiny automobiles, just about anything. I use them on my lenses at the track to reduce the glare from the surface and cars. You will probably decide to leave it on until the sun goes down.

Would it help indoors? For example: Museum display cases? speaking from my own memory rather than for Alex here, but I remember the glare trying to take pictures inside some places was annoying.

 

[Brownie]

Would it help indoors? For example: Museum display cases? speaking from my own memory rather than for Alex here, but I remember the glare trying to take pictures inside some places was annoying.

Absolutely, but you're going to lose some light, so you have to keep that in mind. Plan to bump as much as the filter cuts.