Please help me out - whether rather than how - one better press for temp +1EV exposure

[Astacus]

If you are taking bird shots (1/1000th, auto ISO typically) and a flying bird moved from in front of a landscape to the sky, you'll under expose the bird. Is there a simple way in which I can assign a button to inc EV by, say +1, to improve exposure of the subject, albeit at the expense of the background? I'm asking 'can it be done' rather than 'how' as I like to work things out myself. Thanks all.

 

[DavidN]

Yes. Let me know if you want a clue as to how!

 

[Astacus]

Thanks! Just to be clear, a temp press on, say, C1 (Alpha 1) can just up the exposure by +1Ev? I'll have a look, before I admit failure and come back to you

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

Your opening statement assumes in shooting a bird with the behaviour you suggest over exposure and can only be resolved by EV adjustment. If you are in an environment when you are expecting your subjects to move between light and dark areas why not just expose to the highlights initially,before you start shooting, and adjust the shadows in post as necessary.

 

[Astacus]

Your opening statement assumes in shooting a bird with the behaviour you suggest over exposure and can only be resolved by EV adjustment. If you are in an environment when you are expecting your subjects to move between light and dark areas why not just expose to the highlights initially,before you start shooting, and adjust the shadows in post as necessary.

Mostly because bird photography is not that forgiving. You're watching waders in a muddy estuary, and someone shouts 'kestrel'. I try to rotate the EV dial as I lift from ground exposure to bird in flight. I never go out expressly to shoot one type of image. In a bright sky, shadow recovery generally looks awful.

 

[Astacus]

Would it make sense to try different metering instead of adding a stop of exposure across the board? Get the meter to see the bird and ignore the sky. Maybe expanded spot medium with tracking would be a good place to start experimenting. If you can sort that out, then the camera would expose the bird properly regardless of the background. Seems a better option if it's workable for you.

Again, with bird photography, it is not unusual for the subject to be too far away that spot metering works well. (or centre weighted). Additionally, tracking a smallish bird might be easy with AFC tracking but the bird moves in the field a lot, albeit in focus.

 

[Astacus]

You can couple the spot metering to the tracking so it follows the focus point.

That's interesting, but I would still worry that the image is moving too much - I'll look at that though, thanks.

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

That is the point,

Mostly because bird photography is not that forgiving. You're watching waders in a muddy estuary, and someone shouts 'kestrel'. I try to rotate the EV dial as I lift from ground exposure to bird in flight. I never go out expressly to shoot one type of image. In a bright sky, shadow recovery generally looks awful.

That is the point, plan for the unexpected at the start of a shoot, and if flying birds are on your list of likely subjects, under bright sky conditions i would rather risk the estuary background shot (shadows have much higher recovery potential) over losing/blowing out a flying bird(especially white birds....).

By the way shooting, in shadowy conditions outside of the golden hours or overcast sky is probably not the best time to shoot in any event......agreed shadows can not be easily recovered....

 

[Astacus]

Your opening statement assumes in shooting a bird with the behaviour you suggest over exposure and can only be resolved by EV adjustment. If you are in an environment when you are expecting your subjects to move between light and dark areas why not just expose to the highlights initially,before you start shooting, and adjust the shadows in post as necessary.

also, different birds. e.g. med gull on scrape to (dark) marsh harrier in the air. both couple of hundred metres distant. (I know how to have a good time ). I'm firing at the bird with a 600 f4 and the 1.4 TC usually, hand held!

 

[Astacus]

That is the point,


That is the point, plan for the unexpected at the start of a shoot, and if flying birds are on your list of likely subjects, under bright sky conditions i would rather risk the estuary background shot (shadows have much higher recovery potential) over losing/blowing out a flying bird(especially white birds....).

By the way shooting, in shadowy conditions outside of the golden hours or overcast sky is probably not the best time to shoot in any event......agreed shadows can not be easily recovered....

Time, tides and birds wait for no man. The perfect, bright, golden hour, at 1h after high tide, behind my shoulder - well populated with our feathered friends...(sighs wistfully). I hear what you're saying though.

 

[Astacus]

This was a good trip! but there were some shockers that got delted quickly

Best of North Wales 2022 - Rob&Jane Beynon

This was a guided tour around the best locations in North Wales. Expertly led by Alan Davies and Ruth Miller, superb birds, accommodation, food and logistics. There were six 'guests' and we got on really well - great fun! Highly recommended. https://www.birdwatchingtrips.co.uk/tours/uk-tours

rjbwild.smugmug.com

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

We all(birders), or most of us shoot with the 600mm these days and i would hazard a guess most shoot hand held, as i do, at least for flying birds so many of the issues you mention we live with on a daily basis, discovering new and/or successful work arounds is the key....good luck

 

[Astacus]

I also read an article where someone said 'stop using auto ISO' if you want to do this.

 

[Astacus]

We all(birders), or most of us shoot with the 600mm these days and i would hazard a guess most shoot hand held, as i do, at least for flying birds so many of the issues you mention we live with on a daily basis, discovering new and/or successful work arounds is the key....good luck

Fantastic shots in your gallery!

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

Fantastic shots in your gallery!

Thank you...if i can be of any help in the future, in any way, pls do not hesitate

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

I also read an article where someone said 'stop using auto ISO' if you want to do this.

Auto iso is useful for general shooting as long as you don't have extremes or mixed light and dark as it sometimes gets confused and can lead to shots getting missed and over/under exposed.....

 

[Astacus]

I have sorted it! Slightly confusing, but easy once I had established that the actual compensation was separate to the button assignment. Now let's see if I can train myself to use it. (C1). Thanks everyone who contributed.

 

[Astacus]

Update.. I thought C1 would give me an automatic +1 EV ( or whatever) exposure jump. In fact, it just gives me a wheel adjustable EV on screen. Did i get this wrong?

 

[DavidN]

Try setting what you want using Shooting>Shooting Mode>reg custom shoot set>Recall Custom Hold 1 - you can use this to set all the settings you want for a particular type of shot e.g. birds in flight with fast shutter speed and tracking AF etc. It also incudes EV compensation settings. Then set C1 to Recall Custom hold 1 or I find it simpler to assign the AEL button for this as it’s easier to find quickly. Hope that helps.

 

[lodbrok]

I set my A9ii C2 toggle between aperature and exposure compensation. When I start up the camera the frontweel is set to aperature. When I push on C2 it changes to EV. That way I can have my indexfinger on the shutter and the finger 'you show to people you don't like' on the EV. My thumb is on the AEL button which is set to registered focusarea with Zone with tracking. That way I can move the EV fast since I already have a finger on it. My C1 is set to toggle between manuell and auto focus. I also set the button in the control-weel up with a perched bird meny. Like 1/800 sec. spot-metering auto ISO and small flexible spot. My AF button is whatever I set focusarea on. Mostly wide and expand flexible spot.