rcreamer
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Here are the first astro images I've stacked with a non-Photoshop stacking program: Astro Pixel Processor (on MacOS).
I'm having to grapple with steep learning curves: 1) the stacking app itself, and 2) best exposure settings.
Both images were taken with an A7R5 and the 70-200mm ii Sony tele on a Sky Watcher GTi star tracker. A Bahtinov mask was used for focusing.
[Update: I'm including a photo showing what it looks like when focusing using the Bahtinov mask. When you point the camera with the mask over the lens at a bright star, you see a diffraction pattern with two criss-crossing lines along with a 3rd line which moves roughly up and down when you adjust the focus ring. When the moving line exactly bisects the two criss-crossing lines, the lens is theoretically in focus. This tool can also be used for regular low-light landscape work with distant lights, btw. Some Bahtinov masks are too coarse to work with wide angle lenses, fyi. The one I got has lines that are fine enough to work with my 14mm Sony prime. I got mine at Johannes Scientific for $35.]
I still have a lot to learn and also need more hours of integration time
At least I'm starting to see star colors vs my earlier attempts.
Here are the exposure details for the two attached images. (I'm not taking any calibration frames yet.)
_____
M31 - The Galaxy in Andromeda
(40) 120-second exposures at ISO 800, 200mm lens, f2.8
_____
The Pleiades Star Cluster
(70) 120-second exposures at ISO 800, 200mm lens, f2.8
I'm having to grapple with steep learning curves: 1) the stacking app itself, and 2) best exposure settings.
Both images were taken with an A7R5 and the 70-200mm ii Sony tele on a Sky Watcher GTi star tracker. A Bahtinov mask was used for focusing.
[Update: I'm including a photo showing what it looks like when focusing using the Bahtinov mask. When you point the camera with the mask over the lens at a bright star, you see a diffraction pattern with two criss-crossing lines along with a 3rd line which moves roughly up and down when you adjust the focus ring. When the moving line exactly bisects the two criss-crossing lines, the lens is theoretically in focus. This tool can also be used for regular low-light landscape work with distant lights, btw. Some Bahtinov masks are too coarse to work with wide angle lenses, fyi. The one I got has lines that are fine enough to work with my 14mm Sony prime. I got mine at Johannes Scientific for $35.]
I still have a lot to learn and also need more hours of integration time
At least I'm starting to see star colors vs my earlier attempts.
Here are the exposure details for the two attached images. (I'm not taking any calibration frames yet.)
_____
M31 - The Galaxy in Andromeda
(40) 120-second exposures at ISO 800, 200mm lens, f2.8
_____
The Pleiades Star Cluster
(70) 120-second exposures at ISO 800, 200mm lens, f2.8
- ILCE-7RM5
- FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS II
- 200.0 mm
- ƒ/2.8
- 2.5 sec
- ISO 8000
- notAvailable
- 8399 sec
- notAvailable
- 4680 sec
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