Mixed Sony A1 200-600 Wildlife Advice

[Karolshelby]

Hi all, I have recently purchased a Sony A1 and 200-600 lens, I am learning wildlife and bird photography -but I am struggling to get consistent sharp shots, and its a combination of user error and lack of knowledge on settings with this combo
Currently I am manual with auto iso on monopod

Would anyone please suggest settings -I am trying to perfect dolphin photos and also shore birds, slow moving and BIF.
Thanks so much

 

[iamdlewis]

Can you provide some images for us? Also general camera settings.

Generally a faster shutter speed will help. Smaller the bird the more speed you will probably need as they tend to be twitchier.

 

[Unframed Dave]

As above, there are three reasons you may be getting blurry wildlife shots.

1. Subject isn't properly in focus. What focus mode and area are you using?

2. Subject has moved whilst the shutter is open. If birds are moving, 1/2000th or faster is generally recommended. You can get away with lower, but practice will aid this judgement.

3. You are moving while the shutter is open. This comes down to practice and technique.

 

[THXGEEK]

And don't forget the basics!

Is 'Subject Recognition' enabled and set to 'Birds'? Is 'Image Stabilization / SteadyShot' enabled in the camera? Is OSS enabled on the lens?

I cannot tell you how often I've used my A1II for landscapes, macros, etc (and subsequently disabled subject recognition and IS), only to forget to re-enable them when imaging critters....

LOL, oh well!

 

[AlphaWorld]

Hi all, I have recently purchased a Sony A1 and 200-600 lens, I am learning wildlife and bird photography -but I am struggling to get consistent sharp shots, and its a combination of user error and lack of knowledge on settings with this combo
Currently I am manual with auto iso on monopod

Would anyone please suggest settings -I am trying to perfect dolphin photos and also shore birds, slow moving and BIF.
Thanks so much

I would suggest using Auto ISO minimum shutter speed, with a minimum shutter speed of 1/2000 for BiF, and 1/1000 for the rest.

https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2040/v1/en/contents/TP1000409211.html?search=Auto iso min

I would not recommend manual mode. I’d suggest use Aperture priority, and try shooting wide open, possibly reducing the aperture if you have lots of light. That lets the shutter speed+ISO handle the exposure. If you are running manual mode you only have ISO to handle exposure, and are more likely to overexposed or under expose.

I’d set the shutter to electronic (that enables higher shutter speeds and also means the camera will be silent).

 

[Richard A]

I would not recommend manual mode. I’d suggest use Aperture priority, and try shooting wide open, possibly reducing the aperture if you have lots of light.

I would. I use Manual Mode with the appropriate Shutter speed and the Aperture wide open or closed down 1/2 to one stop. And Auto ISO. I generally use 1/1000 - 1/2,500 sec. I find this gives me the best, most consistent results. And the camera only has to come up with one setting - ISO. I have come up with these settings after testing over a period of time. Also, I don't use a monopod. Only handheld. I find a monopod just gets in the way more than anything.

You need to try all these different settings and see what works for you and the subjects you are photographing.

What Focus settings are you using?

 

[MLHB]

All that has been written on this thread seems right, but what has most helped my bird photography most is understanding the AFC focus area settings, and practice. A ‘busy’ background means that only a tiny AFC ‘area of search’ is likely to catch the bird, whereas against a clear sky the largest ‘area of search’ can be used. Birds jumping about in foliage can be more difficult (even) than birds in flight.

 

[Karolshelby]

As above, there are three reasons you may be getting blurry wildlife shots.

1. Subject isn't properly in focus. What focus mode and area are you using?

2. Subject has moved whilst the shutter is open. If birds are moving, 1/2000th or faster is generally recommended. You can get away with lower, but practice will aid this judgement.

3. You are moving while the shutter is open. This comes down to practice and technique.

Hi Dave, thanks yes Im usally at 1/2500 or 3200, or 1/1600 for slower birds. I use AF-C, and Ive tried all the focus areas, not sure which one is best for the situation -ie dolphins, they are slow moving and still but then suddenly jump out.

 

[Karolshelby]

Hi Dave, thanks yes Im usally at 1/2500 or 3200, or 1/1600 for slower birds. I use AF-C, and Ive tried all the focus areas, not sure which one is best for the situation -ie dolphins, they are slow moving and still but then suddenly jump out.

 

[Karolshelby]

And don't forget the basics!

Is 'Subject Recognition' enabled and set to 'Birds'? Is 'Image Stabilization / SteadyShot' enabled in the camera? Is OSS enabled on the lens?

I cannot tell you how often I've used my A1II for landscapes, macros, etc (and subsequently disabled subject recognition and IS), only to forget to re-enable them when imaging critters....

LOL, oh well!

Hi thanks -yes its set to birds or animal when I m on dolphins, OSS is enabled most of the time,but I have heard people turn it off if under 1/2000

 

[Karolshelby]

I would. I use Manual Mode with the appropriate Shutter speed and the Aperture wide open or closed down 1/2 to one stop. And Auto ISO. I generally use 1/1000 - 1/2,500 sec. I find this gives me the best, most consistent results. And the camera only has to come up with one setting - ISO. I have come up with these settings after testing over a period of time. Also, I don't use a monopod. Only handheld. I find a monopod just gets in the way more than anything.

You need to try all these different settings and see what works for you and the subjects you are photographing.

What Focus settings are you using?

Yes I prefer manual with auto iso, my handheld is way to shaky lol. Focus settings AF-C, focus area changes as that is one thin g I need more advice on, Ive tried them all but not sure which one is best for the situation, for example dolphins, which one would you suggest? they are very slow at times but then sudenly jumping etc

 

[iamdlewis]

I would suggest using Auto ISO minimum shutter speed, with a minimum shutter speed of 1/2000 for BiF, and 1/1000 for the rest.

I’d suggest use Aperture priority, and try shooting wide open, possibly reducing the aperture if you have lots of light. That lets the shutter speed+ISO handle the exposure.

Why would you use Aperture priority if shutter speed is the most important of the exposure triangle? For bird photography you are far more likely to know what shutter speed you want than what Aperture (if you are not already wide open) you need to get you that shutter speed. For those that say you can then just adjust the ISO to get to the wanted shutter speed, how does that make more sense than just adjusting the shutter speed?

I've taken hundreds of thousands of shots of birds with the 200-600 and the number of times that a 1/600 speed would give me an ISO that I would be comfortable with stepping down from F6.3 is rather small. BiF points even stronger to using shutter speed over Aperture because even slow flight birds require speeds so fast that you are going to be shooting wide open, plus you should be able to quickly identify what the right speed is because photographing an eagle isn't the same as a swallow.

 

[Unframed Dave]

I understand your logic, but I use aperture priority.

Generally with the 200-600, I'm wide open, so that just leaves iso to adjust to make the shutter speed where I want it to be.

If I have very good light, I might stop it down a bit to give me a stronger chance of a sharp image. The process remains the same however.

We're all getting to the same place, we just have favourite ways of getting there. I still like back button focus, but that has gone out of fashion now.

 

[Unframed Dave]

Hi thanks -yes its set to birds or animal when I m on dolphins, OSS is enabled most of the time,but I have heard people turn it off if under 1/2000

Over 1/2000!

 

[Unframed Dave]

Hi Dave, thanks yes Im usally at 1/2500 or 3200, or 1/1600 for slower birds. I use AF-C, and Ive tried all the focus areas, not sure which one is best for the situation -ie dolphins, they are slow moving and still but then suddenly jump out.

I mainly use small spot. I will move it around depending on where the birds eye is in relation to the rest of the bird. This does require practice.

Birds in flight, I will change to expanding spot with tracking.

Unfortunately, where something will appear from is never going to be solved. I'd love a shot of a surfacing grebe, but doubt I'll achieve it in my lifetime.