Steady Shot and OSS while using a Monopod and Wimberely MH-100 Monogimbal?

[MyDogsOwner]

I can't seem to find information for this specific set-up. I am shooting BIF and Wildlife with this set-up and am unsure when to turn on Steady Shot and OSS?

My first test shots were all softly focused and I am wondering if my settings are why. I was using the 100-400 + 1.4 TC and there was some wind. I'm not sure if it was my technique or the camera stabilization fighting me. Images were soft with both 400 & 2000 shutter speeds. I even took some of a Bald Eagle sitting at 2000 that seemed off which is why I'm really questioning the SS and OSS? I had steady shot turned On and the OSS On to the 1st position.

All comments appreciated!

 

[Brownie]

Always turn it off on a tripod. Many here also turn it off when handheld and their shutter speed is above a certain point, like 1/1200 or so. I think there are differing views on what the magic number is.

What were your settings? Any chance you could've been dealing with diffraction due to a small aperture?

Were distance and atmosphere a problem? Overcropped? What camera?

 

[MyDogsOwner]

Always turn it off on a tripod. Many here also turn it off when handheld and their shutter speed is above a certain point, like 1/1200 or so. I think there are differing views on what the magic number is.

What were your settings? Any chance you could've been dealing with diffraction due to a small aperture?

Were distance and atmosphere a problem? Overcropped? What camera?

I was using a Monopod though. Wouldn't this be very different from a much more stable tripod? Also, the monogimbal head allows for lots of movement. This is why I came here to ask, so unsure of how to set it up.

I was at f/8. I did crop heavily, but I did post some test shots in tne non-bif forum (just now) that were also cropped heavily as well. I'm using the AR7IV.

 

[Brownie]

I was using a Monopod though. Wouldn't this be very different from a much more stable tripod? Also, the monogimbal head allows for lots of movement. This is why I came here to ask, so unsure of how to set it up.

I was at f/8. I did crop heavily, but I did post some test shots in tne non-bif forum (just now) that were also cropped heavily as well. I'm using the AR7IV.

I missed that, but again, it depends on the shutter speed. Back before we had IBIS we used the Reciprocal rule. The shutter speed should be at least as fast as the focal length of your lens. Given that, you should be able to get a sharp shot of a static subject at 1/400 handheld with that lens. I would think that anything above 1/1000 on a monopod would serve your purpose.

 

[MyDogsOwner]

I missed that, but again, it depends on the shutter speed. Back before we had IBIS we used the Reciprocal rule. The shutter speed should be at least as fast as the focal length of your lens. Given that, you should be able to get a sharp shot of a static subject at 1/400 handheld with that lens. I would think that anything above 1/1000 on a monopod would serve your purpose.

I posted this in the Basic Forum because I didn't know where else to post it. I'm actually a very experienced photographer. The images I took at 2000 of a stationary Bald Eagle were soft. I did that after the slower shutter speeds were soft as a test.

 

[Brownie]

Well, then I think you may be down to Stabilization since it sounds like everything else has been ruled out. @Uncle Kevriano shoots an R4 and has some pretty specific views about IBIS and shutter speeds, maybe he can chime in.

 

[spudhead]

I pretty much never use ibis or oss handheld and never on support, I tend to shoot a bit faster but that is not always a plus either

 

[MyDogsOwner]

Well, then I think you may be down to Stabilization since it sounds like everything else has been ruled out. @Uncle Kevriano shoots an R4 and has some pretty specific views about IBIS and shutter speeds, maybe he can chime in.

Yes, I am hoping someone with a similar set-up can relate the best settings for this scenario. Thanks for your help!

 

[Unframed Dave]

For BIf's a shutter speed of 1/2000 minimum is required to freeze motion of the bird.

Motion induced by the photographer is where IBIS and OSS come into play.

I've done side by side shots with OSS on and off above 1/2000 and have never seen any improvement. Nothing scientific, just viewing the shot zoomed in to the max and looking in the evf.

I rarely shoot off a support with BIfs.

Today, we have extremely high expectations of what our equipment is capable of, I never know how much of this is down to images which have been de noised or sharpened using post process software. I say never, sometimes it is obvious. Some basic rules come into play though with bird photography in my experience. The bird has to be close (or rather you have to be close to the bird), the light has to be good, atmospherics have to be low. and your own technique has to be sound to get razor sharp images out of the camera. There is no alternative.

 

[MyDogsOwner]

For BIf's a shutter speed of 1/2000 minimum is required to freeze motion of the bird.

Motion induced by the photographer is where IBIS and OSS come into play.

I've done side by side shots with OSS on and off above 1/2000 and have never seen any improvement. Nothing scientific, just viewing the shot zoomed in to the max and looking in the evf.

I rarely shoot off a support with BIfs.

Today, we have extremely high expectations of what our equipment is capable of, I never know how much of this is down to images which have been de noised or sharpened using post process software. I say never, sometimes it is obvious. Some basic rules come into play though with bird photography in my experience. The bird has to be close (or rather you have to be close to the bird), the light has to be good, atmospherics have to be low. and your own technique has to be sound to get razor sharp images out of the camera. There is no alternative.

I used to shoot BIF handheld, but now due to both my shoulders having some rotator cuff tears, I need the support of a monopod or tripod.

So, all things being equal, you see no difference when SS and OSS are turned off with shutter speeds at 2000 or greater. Maybe I will try shutting them both off for later when I go out again. It will be interesting to try it.

 

[Unframed Dave]

Slightly different interpretation, but I've not noticed an improvement when I turn it off, so I tend to leave it on.

 

[Landshark99]

Just wondering if you are using that lens at 600 with the tc, that there is some atmospheric stuff happening with wind or moisture. I use IBIS handheld and on a monopod but turn it off on a tripod. Also small vibration in the ground like shooting from the road can also have an effect

 

[Unframed Dave]

Just wondering if you are using that lens at 600 with the tc, that there is some atmospheric stuff happening with wind or moisture. I use IBIS handheld and on a monopod but turn it off on a tripod. Also small vibration in the ground like shooting from the road can also have an effect

Good point, I was trying to shoot Gannets off the back of the channel ferry on Sunday. Despite near perfect conditions, my results were disappointing. When I realised how much vibration I was transmitting to the camera by leaning on the railings, the shots improved by a significant factor.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

As Brownie mentioned, I have defined ideas about this, based on experience and research and some advice from a Tamron pro, so...

I never have OSS on at anything over 1/1600th when handheld, and never at all if I am on a tripod or monopod. My reasoning for this is that at those shutter speeds movement should be imperceptible, but the OSS will try and compensate for it and can, and does, create motion blur, albeit a small amount. This also applies to monopod and tripod shooting, which is why it should be off, and why manufacturers say to turn it off. When I shot Tamron they actually say turn it off over 1/500th, and I certainly proved (to myself at least) that this was true on a day when I forgot and lost over 200 shots of marsh harriers to blur when shooting at 1/3200th.
There are some things to consider, the main one being how steady you are holding the camera. I am pretty much sniper like and have handheld as low as 1/30th with no blur, but that's not something everyone can do, so you may find the 1/1600th speed too low, but it shouldn't be, and for sure it needs to be off over anything 2000 upwards, unless you happen to be wobbly bob.
Consider this, in simple terms, the more you move, the more the OSS has to work to compensate, and there's a limit. The reverse is true, if you are steady eddy, then it will work against you and create blur.
I will add though, that newer cameras and lenses are less affected, and I would reckon if you are shooting 30fps on an A1 it won't affect things as much if it's on or off, as there's a limit to the speed the system can react, process and move the sensor.

So there it is, long winded, but food for thought I hope.

 

[MyDogsOwner]

Just wondering if you are using that lens at 600 with the tc, that there is some atmospheric stuff happening with wind or moisture. I use IBIS handheld and on a monopod but turn it off on a tripod. Also small vibration in the ground like shooting from the road can also have an effect

Thanks for pointing out that roads vibrate as I have been pulling over and shooting very close to them without considering that!

 

[MyDogsOwner]

As Brownie mentioned, I have defined ideas about this, based on experience and research and some advice from a Tamron pro, so...

I never have OSS on at anything over 1/1600th when handheld, and never at all if I am on a tripod or monopod. My reasoning for this is that at those shutter speeds movement should be imperceptible, but the OSS will try and compensate for it and can, and does, create motion blur, albeit a small amount. This also applies to monopod and tripod shooting, which is why it should be off, and why manufacturers say to turn it off. When I shot Tamron they actually say turn it off over 1/500th, and I certainly proved (to myself at least) that this was true on a day when I forgot and lost over 200 shots of marsh harriers to blur when shooting at 1/3200th.
There are some things to consider, the main one being how steady you are holding the camera. I am pretty much sniper like and have handheld as low as 1/30th with no blur, but that's not something everyone can do, so you may find the 1/1600th speed too low, but it shouldn't be, and for sure it needs to be off over anything 2000 upwards, unless you happen to be wobbly bob.
Consider this, in simple terms, the more you move, the more the OSS has to work to compensate, and there's a limit. The reverse is true, if you are steady eddy, then it will work against you and create blur.
I will add though, that newer cameras and lenses are less affected, and I would reckon if you are shooting 30fps on an A1 it won't affect things as much if it's on or off, as there's a limit to the speed the system can react, process and move the sensor.

So there it is, long winded, but food for thought I hope.

Great info! Appreciate you chiming in. I will be chasing Short-Eared Owls and Bald Eagles today, so I will make some adjustments based on this and see how it goes.

 

[MyDogsOwner]

I think I may have figured out my "blur" issue. I've been taking bird images and cropping in. 61 mp will magnify any movement, and CA that is there. I wasn't on the right path at all.