Summer is coming /extension tubes

Paul stuart

Well Known Member
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
Followers
4
Following
0
Joined
Aug 29, 2020
Posts
450
Likes Received
775
I have been meaning to get some decent close ups of insects for while ,i plan on using either my A1 or maybe next month the a7r5 if i buy it,now the 200-600mm has terrible close up capability it is ok for distant then cropping ,is it worth getting extension tubes i would loose auto focus capabilities but then manual focus could be more desired anyway for close up work ,but then the 70-200mm has good close capabilities and i could get a x2 convertor ,basically the 200-600mm at close up ratios only gives you a fov of 400mm anyway due to focus shrinking, s and views.My samyang gives good close up ratios but only 135mm not really long enough in some instances,and views opinions ,or just get a dedicated macro?
 
I have been meaning to get some decent close ups of insects for while ,i plan on using either my A1 or maybe next month the a7r5 if i buy it,now the 200-600mm has terrible close up capability it is ok for distant then cropping ,is it worth getting extension tubes i would loose auto focus capabilities but then manual focus could be more desired anyway for close up work ,but then the 70-200mm has good close capabilities and i could get a x2 convertor ,basically the 200-600mm at close up ratios only gives you a fov of 400mm anyway due to focus shrinking, s and views.My samyang gives good close up ratios but only 135mm not really long enough in some instances ,any views opinions ,or just get a dedicated macro?
 
I have the Neewer NW-S-AF3A extension tubes and they keep the AF functions. I have never used them with the 200-600. I've used the 90mm G macro and the 100-400 GM for insects with the A1.
 
Do bear in mind a full single set of extension tubes ( circa 50-60 mm tubes dependant on ext tube manufacturer) will give you ext tube length/lens focal length setting magnification gain and longer min focus distance but will be greater if magnification gain is a consideration with a true 1/1 macro lens.

Adequate ighting at the lens/subject interface may well also become a consideration.
 
I have the Neewer NW-S-AF3A extension tubes and they keep the AF functions. I have never used them with the 200-600. I've used the 90mm G macro and the 100-400 GM for insects with the A1.
Actually looked at the kenko extension tubes and they electronic coupling 10 and 16mm are these enough to get close framing
 
Do bear in mind a full single set of extension tubes ( circa 50-60 mm tubes dependant on ext tube manufacturer) will give you ext tube length/lens focal length setting magnification gain and longer min focus distance but will be greater if magnification gain is a consideration with a true 1/1 macro lens.

Adequate ighting at the lens/subject interface may well also become a consideration.
yes this is true but trying to get macro shots with 90mm in the field leaves a lot room for dissapointment and i do not own a macro lens
 
If you go to the extreme macro.co.uk site it presents the magnification for non macro lens at min focus distance which is
generally no higher than o.3 x actual size and if say you are using a 70 mm lens with your kenko tubes at 26mm will yield
a 26/70 or 0.37 or thereabouts further multiplier to approx 0.r overall magnifi action and added min focus distance.

The extreme macro site has all the calcs and details to decide on a suitable lens whether for max image magnification below
1/1 Or to extend the minimum focus distance to give more shooting space between subject and lens.
 
If you go to the extreme macro.co.uk site it presents the magnification for non macro lens at min focus distance which is
generally no higher than o.3 x actual size and if say you are using a 70 mm lens with your kenko tubes at 26mm will yield
a 26/70 or 0.37 or thereabouts further multiplier to approx 0.r overall magnifi action and added min focus distance.

The extreme macro site has all the calcs and details to decide on a suitable lens whether for max image magnification below
1/1 Or to extend the minimum focus distance to give more shooting space between subject and lens.
Read overall magnification above at around 0.4......excuse the typ0....
 
I'm surprised more people don't use the Raynox 250. IQ is excellent and it can be added or removed from your existing lenses easily without having to unmount and remove tubes, it simply clips on like a lens cap. I am not a macro shooter so I don't invest much in macro lenses. I have had both the Raynox and tubes at the same time and found I used the Raynox while the tubes set. There are plenty of samples out on the 'net to review.

 
I'm surprised more people don't use the Raynox 250. IQ is excellent and it can be added or removed from your existing lenses easily without having to unmount and remove tubes, it simply clips on like a lens cap. I am not a macro shooter so I don't invest much in macro lenses. I have had both the Raynox and tubes at the same time and found I used the Raynox while the tubes set. There are plenty of samples out on the 'net to review.

Got one Tim not used much yet (y)
 
Got one Tim not used much yet (y)
Give it a shot. You can also mount it in front of a macro lens. I've toyed with getting another to add to my old A-Mount 50 macro, but for what little I shoot macro it'd likely just set.
 
I second the idea of using a high quality achromatic close up lens. Raynox is one. canon and Nikon make several. The 200-600 may be a poor match due to the 95mm filter size but a 77mm Canon 500D might work with a step ring. I’ve used a 62mm Nikon on a 77mm front element telephoto (200mm) with good results.
 
I have used a raynox filter i did not like it to much on my olympus 75mm f1.8 which is like a 150mm 3,6 fov but it worked .
 
I have used a raynox filter i did not like it to much on my olympus 75mm f1.8 which is like a 150mm 3,6 fov but it worked .
I couldn't use it on some of my M-4/3 lenses for that same reason, but on the right lens the results are amazing.
 
The other option, not referenced, above and for higher magnifications, is to use a reversed lens with simple
adapter rings....typically a 70mm lens with a 50mm reversed lens say.

This is the lowest cost option, in the absence of macro lenses, which is very effective with the only cost being the
relatively cheap adapter rings available on Amazon and other(assuming the user already has a 70mm and 50mm
lens or similar)

The drawback is the limited space between the lead lens and subject and in the absence of a well lit environment often
requires a light source trained into the gap.
 
11
The other option, not referenced, above and for higher magnifications, is to use a reversed lens with simple
adapter rings....typically a 70mm lens with a 50mm reversed lens say.

This is the lowest cost option, in the absence of macro lenses, which is very effective with the only cost being the
relatively cheap adapter rings available on Amazon and other(assuming the user already has a 70mm and 50mm
lens or similar)

The drawback is the limited space between the lead lens and subject and in the absence of a well lit environment often
requires a light source trained into the gap.
 
The other option, not referenced, above and for higher magnifications, is to use a reversed lens with simple
adapter rings....typically a 70mm lens with a 50mm reversed lens say.

This is the lowest cost option, in the absence of macro lenses, which is very effective with the only cost being the
relatively cheap adapter rings available on Amazon and other(assuming the user already has a 70mm and 50mm
lens or similar)

The drawback is the limited space between the lead lens and subject and in the absence of a well lit environment often
requires a light source trained into the gap.
Thanks Paul I have used reversed lenses myself in the past and as long as the reveresd lens focal length
Doesn't exceed the focal length of your primary lens you can achieve higher magnification levels.
 
Back
Top